Celtic Mist Survey Cruise Leg 07: Derry-Carlingford
Skipper: Fiacc
First Mate: Jane
Marine Biologist: Patrick
Crew: Aoife, David, Sorley, Robbie
Day 1: Foggy Hellos in Derry
We arrived in Derry under a classic Irish fog, the kind that makes everything feel a little more mysterious. One by one, the crew trickled in from all corners; Cork, Dublin, Belfast, and the boat slowly came to life. After a bit of chatting and laughing, we dove into the less glamorous stuff: shopping logistics. Everyone nominated their signature dish (some more ambitious than others), and a few brave souls set off for Tesco to stock us up. That evening, after battling with the oven, we sat down to our first meal, an absolutely delicious chicken dish which definitely set the bar high for the rest of the trip.
Day 2: Derry to Greencastle – Boats, Bridges & Bolognese
We were up bright and early at 7AM to catch the tide to Greencastle. It was a short but scenic journey, gliding under bridges and spotting seals, gannets, and terns. When we arrived, we were greeted by a local fisherman with his dog, and believe it or not, his pet seal (very on-brand). After mooring next to two crab boats, we wandered into town and discovered a maritime museum that proudly featured the Celtic Mist, complete with VR headsets. Naturally, the sun came out just in time for an ice cream and a pint. We wrapped the day with a hearty spaghetti Bolognese and hit the hay early to prep for a big day ahead.
Day 3: Greencastle to Rathlin – Puffins, Porpoises & a Puddle
A 5AM start sounds painful, and it was, but watching the sunrise as we cruised out of the River Foyle made it worth it. The sea was a bit bumpy, which quieted even the chattiest among us, but we pushed through and even spotted dolphins dancing in the distance.
Once we docked in Rathlin around lunchtime, we were all looking forward to dry land, except for Paddy, who discovered he’d left his porthole open. Cue: soaked clothes, bedding, and a very damp mood. We shook it off with a bus ride to Rathlin’s West Lighthouse, home to thousands of seabirds (and puffins!). After taking in the sights (and smells), we ended up at the pub for a well-earned pint, followed by a brave, rainy swim off the pontoon. Chicken fajitas for dinner, a game of Quirkle, and lights out by 9PM, another early start loomed.
Puffin on Rathlin Island at the West Coast Lighthouse
Day 4: Rathlin to Bangor – Porpoises & Proper Showers
Another 5AM start, but once again rewarded with calm seas and scenic sailing past Rathlin’s lighthouses. We kept our eyes peeled and were lucky to spot about a dozen harbour porpoises along the way. After a smooth crossing past the Gobbins and over the River Lagan, we landed in Bangor by lunchtime.
Bangor Marina was next-level fancy compared to our usual rustic stops, hot showers, proper facilities, the works. We had some time to explore town and tend to Celtic Mist’s usual quirks. Dinner was a fresh stir-fry followed by a chilled evening; no alarms set for 5AM (for once).
Day 5: Bangor to Ardglass – A Swim, Some Seals & a Celebrity Wall
We enjoyed a rare lie-in before setting off around 8AM toward Ardglass. We had a special guest onboard: Holly, who’s training to swim across the Irish Sea for IWDG and the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust. After giving the boat an energy boost, we dropped her off near Donaghadee and watched her swim into shore. (Yes, we left her there. Yes, she made it safely.)
The rest of the trip to Ardglass was smooth sailing, with more porpoises and seals along the way. Once docked, among more lounging seals, we explored town, checked out the “Wall of Fame” (yes, Ed Sheeran made the cut alongside John Coe and Aquarius), and stopped by the oldest golf club in Ireland. A seaweed-filled swim later, we returned to the boat for a stellar lamb curry.
Holly, who is swimming across the Irish Sea for IWDG and Hebridean Whale and Dolphin Group
One of those boats that makes the Celtic Mist feel small- Shtandart
Day 6: Ardglass to Carlingford – Engine Drama & Sailing Triumphs
We left Ardglass at a leisurely 9AM aiming for Carlingford, but partway through the journey, our gearbox started acting up, the oil pressure gauge dropped, and things got tense. The skipper made the call to divert to Kilkeel, a busy fishing port where we definitely stood out. After squeezing into the tight harbour, a mechanic came aboard to check things out while we ate a surprisingly fancy Caprese salad courtesy of David.
Before we had time to explore, the skipper decided to take a chance and head back out to sea, aiming for Carlingford and conserving the engine by sailing. In a plot twist, while tinkering with one issue below deck, he accidentally solved the main one. Turned out the gear wasn’t broken-just the sensor. Next week officially uncancelled.
We reached Carlingford in the late afternoon, had a final meal of chickpea curry, and celebrated with our last round of pints in town.
The Wrap-Up: One Wild Week
From puffins and porpoises to foggy mornings and unexpected detours, our week on Celtic Mist had everything, good food, great company, a little chaos, and a lot of wildlife. In just a few days, we spotted about a dozen harbour porpoises and tens of thousands of seabirds (shoutout to Rathlin).
Patrick Kinnard – Marine Biologist, Celtic Mist