Celtic Mist Leg 05: Rossaveal – Killybegs
Skipper: Pat
First mate: Jane
Marine biologist: Patrick
Assistant Marine biologist: Bláthnaid
Crew: Ruth, Christina, Fiona, Theresa
Our week aboard the Celtic Mist started in Rossaveal (a small Gaeltacht village & ferry port for the Aran Islands), with the clever thinking of Pat the Skipper, our food supply was delivered to us from Supervalue Barna. One by one each of the crew members arrived, once settled in Pat updated us with the news of rough sea conditions for the week ahead, pushing us to rearrange our travel plans (the first rearrangement of many!).
As decided, Monday morning we left Rossaveal harbor for the day, exploring the Aran Islands and the surrounds of Galway Bay. Starting the day with a safety briefing and an introduction to Irelands marine mammals from resident marine biologist Paddy. With the swell size increasing, some of the crew began to feel the effects throughout the day. Other crew members gained great experience in grabbing ‘the bucket’ for those struggling. But it was all worth it when several common dolphins began jumping and bow-riding around Celtic Mist. Once back in Rossaveal, we had our hearts set on the Chéibh pub nearby, a local spot serving fantastic pizzas (beware of the spicy one!).
Our third day aboard the Celtic Mist was a day for sightseeing (another first of many) while waiting for calmer seas. The crew was split into teams, some sent to Barna to secure more food & crystalized ginger (apparently/hopefully a sea-sickness remedy), some chose to explore Inis Oirr, some Inis Mór and lastly skipper Pat was left to wait for a fuel delivery and do a spot of painting. The verdict is out on who had the best adventure.
Resident Marine biologist Paddy briefing the crew on possible marine mammal sightings.
An Chéibh Bar Rossaveal (best & only pizzas in town!)
Inis Mór’s abundant seal colony represented on this day by one relaxed member.
Once the weather prevailed the crew said goodbye to Rossaveal smiling, looking forward to a smoother sail than the last, keeping an eye out for all marine mammals while discussing the diversity of Irish waters. With fantastic sailing conditions & keen eyes we enjoyed bow riding from common dolphins, often surrounding us at all angles, a possible sunfish sighting and bird species such as puffins, gannets, storm petrels, and guillemots.
Late Tuesday afternoon arriving at our mooring on Inishbofin or the ‘Island of the white cow’ (from this point onwards the days faded into one, as if Inishbofin acted on a Tír na nÓg time zone). Expecting to have only the arrival evening to explore, we were taxied to and from the island using the dinghy, settling in for an early night for the long journey to Killybegs ahead.
On Wednesday morning, bright and early at 7am, the Celtic Mist crew was awake and ready for a day of sailing. The key in the ignition, snacks of the day prepared, the key was turned – total silence (both from the motor & the crew). The lack of noise indicated something was wrong. After some patient attempts from skipper Pat & first mate Jane, the issue was localized (starter engine), however, unsolvable without a new part. And so began our real holiday on Inishbofin! Bikes were rented, beaches explored, mountains hiked, games played, pancakes ate… the list is endless, safe to say we made the most of the heatwave on Inishbofin.
Theresa & Ruth enjoying the view of Inishbofin
Pat, Christina, Teresa & Celtic Mist in view.
First mate Jane guiding us safely to our mooring with help from the crew
Paddy, Ruth & Jane are ecstatic to be in the new IWDG dinghy!
A special thanks to our dinghy taxi drivers, Jane & Pat!
Jane & Pat are hoping for a sauna booking.
A full Irish Breakfast in the sun for all crew.
Fiona exploring the ruins of Cromwell Barracks while listening to the calls of the rare Corncrake bird.
With some incredible problem-solving skills, a multitude of phone calls (sorry Andrew!) and some incredible teamwork from the IWDG, a new part was tracked down and sent from the UK, once in Dublin (after an imaginary delay) the part was delivered to Cleggan pier. Our saviour, a local marine mechanic, arrived by ferry with the missing piece. At exactly 8.50pm on Friday evening, the key was once again turned, and the engine started, safe to say all those on Inishbofin heard the celebrations! Although nobody was happier than Pat the skipper.
So began our night sail, a long journey straight from Inishbofin to Killybegs. Luckily for us, the weather was perfect, and it just so happened to be nearing the summer solstice, the longest stretch of daylight all year (almost as if our extended Inishbofin holiday was meant to be!). A group of common dolphins joined us, bow-riding as we left the island, almost guiding us back to our surveying. The crew rested between shifts, some lucky enough to witness a beautiful crescent moon lighting up the night sky for a brief period.
A beautiful sunset leaving Inishbofin
As we made our way closer to Killybegs, after a successful night’s sailing, the northwest welcomed the Celtic Mist with open arms, with high levels of marine activity throughout our final day of sailing. At several points, we were completely surrounded by multiple common dolphin pods, showing behaviours such as tail slapping, splashing, leaping, and bow riding throughout the entire journey. Sea bird species such as gannets, puffins, guillemots, were also in abundance. One of the highlights, spotted in Donegal Bay within the last few hours of our journey, was a minke whale, spotted multiple times, possibly feeding amongst the common dolphins. With a backdrop of Sliabh Liag and Benbulbin, the minke sighting is tough to beat.
A happy crew after a successful (completely unexpected) man overboard drill!
Skipper Pat’s fantastic common dolphin shots.
Puffin by Marine Biologist Paddy
Minke whale captured with backdrop of Sliabh Liag.
Common dolphin & minke captured by Paddy.
A tip to anyone hoping to explore Killybegs, arrive before 8.30pm unless you’re a fan of Pizza Max or Chinese! After over a week on board the Celtic Mist we finally reached our destination. The journey, a rollercoaster from start to finish, was a complete success, with over 600 different individual marine species logged throughout the entire week.
The last supper, a farewell dinner before a farewell drink